Draken Harald Hårfagre, drakin fligur vidari!

An interpretation of the Old Norse language for, “Dragon, Fly On!” is the chorus to a chantey of a ship named after a mid Ninth Century King who, in not-so-friendly terms, united Norway.

For the first time in modern history, not since the period of origin has what is now the world’s largest Viking longship been birthed. Inspired by folklore and stories, history, archeological findings, pride in heritage, and likely more than that, a man by the name of Sigurd Aase dreamt of doing just that to have her sail the course of the vikings from over 1,000 years ago with an intention of, in the words I heard him speak, “to bring people together.” For as long as I can remember I have had a desire to travel to Norway, see the land, connect with its people, and maybe even look up ancestry. But as fortune has brought it, we now have opportunity to visit such a ship and personally, now I feel a part of Norway has come to visit me.

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Draken was first laid down, as it’s been said, in 2010 when construction began. She has been placed in water a couple of times and had her hull reinforced along the way after her maiden voyage and following trial runs. And in April of 2016 with a crew of thirty two she set out to start her expedition to the United States of America by way of The Shetland & Faroe Islands, Iceland, Greenland, Newfoundland, through Canada into the Great Lakes, and down the Hudson River into NY to rest for the winter in Mystic Seaport, CT. Think about that a moment. They left Norway, in April, to sail the Northern Atlantic in a ship with no more quarters than a tent that sleeps twenty four.

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Wood detail photo credit, my friend Nancy Lund, Sons of Norway Lodge Nor-Bu

 

It was last weekend that I heard Draken and her crew made a stop in Kingston, NY. Early on a Sunday morning I went with my friend Nancy, from Sons of Norway Lodge, Nor-Bu to grab a spot on line to board a viking vessel. I could not sleep the night before. In fact excitement of this week’s experiences has kept me up most nights. When we arrived 8:30 AM there was already a line of people. Very happy people. We were all about to see something so very remarkable. Draken is not a replica of any one ship but a true-to-life recreation of what history and discovery teach us, down to every last detail. Her design is as efficient as it is beautiful in detail and decoration, and to my surprise floats an ambient scent that is even quite pleasant. As the ship is covered in pine tar to repel water, and even a little sticky to touch, thoughts of a floating christmas tree happen to come to mind.

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There I was, eager to buy my tickets and even excited to buy my souvenir book, postcards, T-shirt, and hat (it’s a special day, you know), looking around in disbelief. Need I say how much Nancy and I enjoyed our tour of the ship with chance to take as many photos as we like, even making a full day of it? Little did I know, this was just a beginning to a wonderful week.

Kingston’s Historic Waterfront is a very nice area, I’ll mention. Having a ship museum, trolley museum, and plenty of restaurants close to the water, it was easy for Nancy and I to find a great place for lunch. We decided on a seafood restaurant for lunch with an outdoor open porch and bar looking at the river. She pointed out a man walking to the next table over wearing a Draken shirt and she asked me, “Hey, isn’t he one of the crew members?” He was, and we invited him to join us at our table for lunch. We quickly learned he leads a very interesting life, as a nurse back home in Norway, he is acting as the ship’s medic and one of two photographers. “Are you kidding me??”, I thought. He has more hobbies and talents than I can remember but flying with a motorized propeller on his back, hanging from a parachute with a camera in his hand seems to stick out the most in my mind. To no surprise, safe to say, every member of this crew has their own similar story. How inspiring!!

Our new friend’s name is Dag and he lives in a town very close to Bergen, Norway from where some of my own ancestry comes. I asked him about his upcoming journey into NYC and he mentioned possibilities of looking for a helicopter to video Draken as she sails around NY Harbor for her big event. Now if you have not seen Draken’s videos and photography, Dag and his photography partner Peder creates first-rate, mesmerizing work. Well, I expressed an idea to Dag, that I shoot full-time, and that if he needed a back-up camera during his helicopter flight that I would love to be the one to help. He told me it’s doubtful but he will keep that in mind.

Oh boy – now, with even a slim chance, possibilities exist. I went home and within a day I created a photo gallery from our day in Kingston. Interestingly and coincidentally, very soon afterwards, there was a photography challenge posted on Draken’s FaceBook page saying that the person who takes the best photograph of the ship will be invited to sail with the crew for a day. GAME – ON! Talk about not sleeping, I cleared my Thursday that week to plan Draken’s entrance into NYC on Friday. But things changed and surprises happened.

Thursday morning I went to Bear Mountain, NY, looking for a riverbank to set up camp with a camera. I found a park and a dock beneath the Bear Mountain Bridge. And on a day that could not have turned out any more perfect, soon to come down the Hudson River was a tremendous Viking ship under full sail. With a handful of people there waiting just as I was, we all shared in watching Draken pass by headed south to NYC.

I then got into my car hoping to do the same in Haverstraw, NY and then in Fort Lee, NJ. Tracking her voyage with a vessel finder app on my phone, she stopped in Croton on the Hudson and no more shots were to be had that day. That’s OK, I did really well!

The next day I once again and hit the road early. I went to Fort Lee and walked a path that leads under the George Washington Bridge. Seeing online that Draken was still not moving I took a drive to Liberty State Park to look for more great locations. I took a few test shots on a clear day, sat down to check for any motion and discovered Draken is now in Jersey City – How the hell did that happen?? Sneaky vikings, I tell ya. They can’t be trusted. So, ok, quite bummed out I took advantage of the moment to see where she is docked. It was on the Jersey side of the river. It was a cloudless evening with the sun just beginning to set, reflecting off the buildings across the river. Just wonderful. I parked my car closer to the marina, walked over, and there is my new friend Dag asking me to come on board. Wow! Just Wow!

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I will say, I could not have been more warmly welcomed. People wondered who I was and why I was there but all I had to do was say, “Hi, I’m Dave” and that I was honored to be invited by their crew mate, Dag. They joked with me, teasing each other, clearly connected in ways an outsider can only imagine. Dag and I sat and talked, sharing bottles of warm root beer. Mind you, there is no refrigeration, and alcohol is the treat of the captain. Root beers are just fine. It was nice to relax and not be in the mix of visiting crowds. And then he said to me, “I have some news. I contacted the office back home and you have full clearance to sail with us for photos.” I could not believe what he just told me. And it is something I will never forget. “Be here 8:00 tomorrow morning to set sail at 8:30.”

Saturday morning is their big day. It’s the highlight of their expedition, being welcomed into New York Harbor. It was planned for me to be aboard a close-by photography ship, but that morning Dag and Peder decided I could be of better help photographing the crew up close. On Draken I stayed.

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So what is it like? Captain Björn Ahlander calls his morning meeting. He has a soft voice of heart, knowledge, and respect standing before a crew who’s calm and most capable, coming from ten different countries. He reminds everyone that today is a big day and that many people are there to watch. And other than that, relax and enjoy where you are. Dag introduced me to a couple of key crew members and went on his way to the other boat for the day. I was escorted to the bridge and signed in with my name, as American. I was now officially, even if guest photographer for only one day, part of Draken’s crew. Things just got real.

 

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The morning was perfect. Pleasant temperature, clear skies, with the sun breaking over the skyline. Then it was time to push off and raise the sail. Everything about the day, the crew, and the ship was remarkable. The crew was seemingly very confident and focused though I’m sure the calm harbor is nothing compared to their experience in the North Atlantic. They have their routine down pat. My role in my mind had to be balanced so to photograph the energy and capture the day and city for them (because they could not have cell phones in-hand during filming), but to also stay clear where needed. Care of each other was obvious. And the kitchen never stops. The moments fly by and then there is another spread of food placed out for all to take. No pastries here. It was all-out Norwegian with fruit, crackers, cheese, spreads, and fresh lox that melted in your mouth.

 

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Shortly later, two more boats arrived. It was Sigurd Aase, the owner of Draken in royal costume and his family with four woman dressed in period-correct dresses who boarded Draken in the middle of the harbor. Thought the dresses they were wearing were traditional “Bunads” but as it turned out, these dresses were styled a thousand years earlier. Now, not only am I sailing in NY Harbor as guest photographer aboard a Viking Longship, but I am standing with the man who built the ship, hearing him discuss his efforts. It doesn’t get better than that!

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By this point we have been at sail navigating around Liberty and Governor’s Islands for a few hours, now closing in on North Cove marina in the Financial District of Manhattan. The sail has come down, crowds of people are waiting at the docks, the crew is gathered near the bow of the ship, and one woman is standing at the dragon head blowing the horn (think large animal horn) into the air while the crew chants, “Drakin fligur vidari!”, stomping out the beats.

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Once on land media tents have been set up for welcome, introduction, and interviewing. And not only is the crew talented at their seamanship but they now how to entertain as well. Just as in old-world history, they come with songs to sing including their theme chantey. And backing them up was a four-piece band in costume playing traditional music. It was a great little celebration. Following, back on board, the skipper expressed his satisfaction in their duties and rewarded them with a round of aquavit. He raised his glass, asked if everybody has some, and calmly says, “We are in New York.”

 

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Like I said, I feel like Norway has come to me, but Draken is here until Sept 26, 2016. Make every effort to visit her. I did all I knew to capture what it is like to be there and am happy to share my experience with you. But what I will remember the most is this, how quickly and easy it is to connect with those around you while on board. I was there for only four or five hours and I have interacted with crew members a little bit everyday since. I can only romanticize in my mind the connection, trust, and respect they have for each other after all of that time spent together in such conditions. But let alone seeing them as inspirational, they are individuals who are more-so extraordinary and each deserve to be there. I make every effort to live a happy and healthy life, from decades of volunteering on ski patrol which I am proud of, to mountain biking, swing dancing, kayaking, and even connecting with people though photography. And yet as much as I love my daily routine in life, having my ways to enjoy my downtime, meeting people as special as these reminds me that as much as I do, there is still so much more to life.

With that said, I can only try to express my gratitude fully enough to Dag and every member of Draken for including me in the ways that they have. And to them I say, I feel blessed to have met all of you and am honored to have been included in your day. It is a day and even a week I will never forget. Sigurd, in my view, has realized his dream.

Thank you crew members for having me share your story. And thank you, for reading.

Drakin fligur vidari,

~Dave

Please click here for the entire Draken Gallery. In the spirit of Draken being an educational and community enhancing vessel, all images from Kingston are available for free download.

To learn more about Draken, please visit Their FaceBook Page, join Their Fellowship Page, or follow them on Their Homepage.

Please come by and discover more of my galleries to Like on FaceBook as they happen.

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5 thoughts on “Draken Harald Hårfagre, drakin fligur vidari!

  1. Excellent article! Wonderful photography. I willow click on links and perhaps go see this magnificent ship.
    gg

  2. Wonderful adventure ! Congratulations to the crew for this inspiring journey – and to you for your photography of this intrepid ship and crew. Indeed we have all been “Viking” — voyaging the human spirit — aboard Draken.

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